Bike Position Setup

As a Triathlete you may do a lot of training and racing on a road bike. As you progress in the sport you may buy a time trial (triathlon) bike to race on and to perform key training sessions. Alternatively you may fit aero-bars to your road bike to enable you to ride in a time trial style of position. If you are doing any draft legal racing you may wish to add aero-bars to your road bike but are limited to the length of the extensions which must not pass the further forward than the front of your brake levers. In this article we'll have a look at each of these situation to identify a safe, comfortable and efficient riding position:

The importance of Safety, Comfort, Efficiency & The Fit Window
What is the difference between a road & a time trial position?
What's the the difference between a road & time trial bike?
Setting up your riding position
Recording your riding position
Issue regarding setting up a time trial position on a road bike?

The information and recommendations in this article do not replace common sense. Everyone is put together differently so clearly one size does not fit all. What works for one person may cause pain, discomfort or injury to another. Think of the guidance as a model to aim towards if you have no known issues such as injuries or anatomical irregularities, a reasonable level of fitness and are not afraid to have your saddle at a height where your feet may not be able to touch the ground when sat on the saddle. As you learn more about yourself then make adjustments that suit you. If you know you have injuries or anatomical irregularities, etc then seek advice from a coach, bike fit professional or physio before proceeding.

If you have a new bike and are looking for a quick start guide to get a safe, comfortable and efficient riding position try the British Cycling 6 step guide below. This position will be fine as a starting point for road, mountain bikes or hybrids to be used for commuting and general training:

The importance of safety, comfort, efficiency & the fit window

Whether you're into triathlon or cycling, your bike setup is always a balance between safety, comfort and efficiency. When testing out a riding position ask yourself the questions underneath each point.

Safety

You must be able to control your bike at all times including being able to corner, climb and descend effectively. Your brakes, gears and nutrition must be easily accessible so you can get to them when you need them. Visibility is often overlooked when riding in more extreme aerodynamic positions, if you can't easily look forward to see where you are going you need to adapt your position. Safety always comes first!

Do I feel in control of the bike?
Can I clearly see where I am going?
Can I look around to observe potential hazards?
Can I easily reach the brakes and gears?

Comfort

You need to be motivated to train in the position you will use in the race, if the position is uncomfortable you may avoid key sessions. You must be able to maintain your bike position for the duration of your chosen event when riding at race intensity. If you're a triathlete or duathlete you also need to be able to run off the bike!

Do I look forward to riding the bike?
Does riding for a prolonged period of time result in pain or discomfort?

Efficiency

This means getting the most out for the energy you put in. You must be able to generate high power outputs by pushing hard on the pedals whilst turning them quickly, smoothly and using a combination of muscle groups. Equally important is reducing resistive forces such as drag and air resistance created by your body:

Can I pedal quickly and smoothly?
Is there excessive movement of my upper body whilst pedalling?
Does it feel like I am transmitting the power I am generating through the pedals?

Whilst most of us won't have access to a wind tunnel there are a couple of performance tests you can use to evaluate a position for aerodynamics and sub-maximal economy:

Aerodynamics - Free wheel down an incline from a set start point. Once the incline flattens out measure how far you go before you come to a stop. Keep your cranks horizontal. Wear the same equipment and clothing. Try to do the test with the same weather conditions. Inflate your tires to the same pressure. Repeat this test with each new position you try and compare the distance traveled.
Sub-Maximal Economy - After a standardized warm-up, complete a bout of exercise at 3 sub-maximal power outputs for 5 minutes each. Record your heart rate at each power output and compare this to the same test carried out in other positions. Your sub-maximal economy will have improved if you maintain a lower average HR for the same power output.

The Fit Window

So we've already got quite a list of things to consider. Some of the underlying causes could include:

physical and technical demands of your chosen event
your anatomy
your fitness
how much time you have spent practicing in the position
your cycling skill

In fact your preferred cycling position will certainly vary within an acceptable ‘Fit Window' over time. For example when I get back on my time trial bike at the start of a season the first thought that goes through my find is 'there's no way I can hold that position for the whole of a race'. I'll then make some adjustments so it's more suitable for my current situation then over the next month of training slowly return to the initial position. Neither position was right or wrong, they were just two extremes of my 'Fit Window' for Olympic distance racing. To build on this when I race Ironman there is no way I could hold the position is use for Olympic distance events. I therefore make adjustments to reduce the amount of drop until I achieve something I can hold for 5 hours. So I've got a different Fit Window for Ironman racing. The main thing is that I record these positions so I have a record when I make changes.

What is the difference between a road and a time trial position?

To answer this question have a look at the videos below and consider the summary points beneath each.

General Road Riding Position

A general road position used for training is versatile. Whilst the standard position is to ride with your hands on the brake hoods covering the brakes, you can easily switch to the tops or drops. Weight is distributed evenly between front and back wheel allowing for responsive bike handling. Whilst riding on the brake hoods it is a relatively upright position compared to a time-trial position allowing good visibility. This enables an open-hip angle for smooth, powerful and efficient pedaling without the need for a steep seat tube angle (road bikes often have a seat tube angle around 73 degrees). By riding on the drops and bending the elbows an aero-dynamic positions can be achieved for short periods when required. When climbing hills you can move onto the tops of the bars and shift your weight back for improved efficiency.

Here are a few key visible checks for a road position for training. It's worth noting that competitive road cyclists competing in events such a road races, stage races and criteriums may vary from this:

Upper body should be still to act as a solid platform to work off.
Foot held parallel to the ground to for a solid platform whilst pedalling.or the heel slightly raised. Heel should not be allowed to collapse and drop low.
At the bottom of the pedal stroke there should be ~20-30 degrees of knee bend. At the top of the pedal stroke knee bend should be ~ 90 degrees
Whilst riding on the brake hoods, the angle at your hip between your upper leg and torso should be ~90 degrees at the bottom of the pedal stroke and no less than 30 degrees at the top of the pedal stroke
The angle of your torso compared to the ground should be around 45 degrees when riding on the brake hoods. This will increase when riding on the bar tops and decrease significantly when riding on the drops.
There should be an angle of ~90 degrees at your shoulder between your upper arm and torso.
When riding on the brake hoods and tops there should be a small amount of bend at your elbow so you arms aren't locked out. When riding on the drops the amount of elbow bend will increase.
Head Position: Variable. You must be able to look forward and around as required.
For efficient power delivery when riding on the brake hoods, the front of your knee should be positioned over front edge of pedal spindle when held in the 3 o'clock position.
When looking from the front your knees should be kept as narrow as possible without loosing efficiency or risking injury. Ideally they should run parallel to the top tube.
The width of your elbow will be variable depending upon hand position and situation. For example when riding in close proximity to others elbow may be wide to create a safe space. When in a break or making an effort you may bring your elbows inwards to reduce frontal surface area and reduce drag.
Your hands should be level with the outside of your shoulders when riding on the brake hoods for comfort and stability. Therefore the width of your handle bar should be the same or slightly wider than your shoulders.

Time Trial Position

A time trial position is designed to reduce frontal surface area and result in low aerodynamic drag by bringing your shoulders much lower to the ground, flattening your back. Instead of resting your hands on the handlebars you rest your elbows onto aero-bars which are fitted onto or replace your handlebars. This moves more weight towards the front end of the bike altering it's handling and also places more strain on your arms and shoulders. Therefore people competing in longer events (e.g. Ironman) may decided not to go as low at the front end as shorter distance athletes (e.g. Sprint or Olympic) to avoid the potential discomfort meaning having to come out of the position to stretch more often.

Time trial bikes are designed with a lower front end (shorter head tube) and steeper seat tube angle of 75-80+° to encourage this position. The steeper seat angle allows your hip angle to remain open for efficient pedalling; as if you have taken your road position and been rotated forward around the bottom bracket. The open hip angle keeps hamstring and gluteal activation in an efficient range without over stretching them. For people with a larger belly it also means there is less chance of your upper leg hitting it at the top of the pedal stroke. It also makes it easier for you to breath whilst riding in this position.This not only improves efficiency whilst riding but also makes it easier to run off the bike.

Below is an example of the benefit of a steeper seat tube angle. Paul's time trial bike has a relatively relaxed angle for a time trial bike at around 74°. If he moves himself up and forward about 5 degrees from his normal position you can see that the angle at hips hip opens up:

Here are a few key visible checks for a time trial position. It's worth noting that the ideal position will vary depending up your chosen event:

Upper body should be still to act as a solid platform to work off.
Your back should be a flat/straight as possible holding a neutral posture. Try rolling your hips forward to achieve this.
Foot position is similar to that described for a road position but heel may be higher as you are rotated forward around the bottom bracket. The aim is still to maintain a solid platform to push against and not to allow your heel to drop.
At the bottom of the pedal stroke there should be ~10-30 degrees of knee bend depending upon personal preference and back/hamstring flexibility. At the top of the pedal stroke knee bend should be ~ 90 degrees
Whilst riding on the aero-bars, the angle at your hip between your upper leg and torso should be ~90 degrees at the bottom of the pedal stroke and no less than 30 degrees at the top of the pedal stroke
The angle of your torso compared to the ground may be as small as 5-10 degrees for short distance athletes. In events such as Ironman where comfort is king then this can be significantly larger. Trial and error is required to find the right balance.
There should be an angle of ~90 degrees at your shoulder between your upper arm and torso so that your elbow tips are just underneath or slightly in front of your shoulders.
Your elbows will be bent at 90 degrees so that your forearms are roughly parallel to the ground.
Your wrist position should be comfortable and will depend on whether you use straight or upturned bars.
The position of the back of the aero-bar elbow pads should be 3-4cm's forward of the elbow tip. Adjust forward or back to make comfortable.
Your head position should be comfortable and maintainable. Keep looking forward so you can see where you are going and so helmet unites with your back if wearing an aero-helmet.
For efficient power delivery when riding on the aerobars, the front of your knee should be positioned forward of the front edge of pedal spindle when held in the 3 o'clock position. There is a legal limit of 5cm in front defined in the British Triathlon rules.
When looking from the front your knees should be kept as narrow as possible without loosing efficiency or risking injury. Ideally they should run parallel to the top tube.
Elbow Width: Begin with elbows as wide as shoulders and move in as bike handling skills improve.
Aim to get elbows in-line with knees as long as efficiency, bike handling and comfort are not affected.
Hand Width: Try setting your aero-bar extensions so your hands are as wide as your elbows. Move in if more comfortable

What is the difference between a road and a time trial bike?

Clearly road and time trial bikes are designed for different riding positions. In order to make those riding positions possible, here's a summary of some of the difference between road and time trial bikes:

(image from http://www.bikesportmichigan.com)

Road

More relaxed seat tube angle
Longer top tube
Longer head tube
Traditional handlebar setup
Integrated brakes and gear shifters
Rounder tubing

Time Trial:

Steeper seat tube angle
Shorter top tube
Shorter head tube
More relaxed head tube angle
Different handlebar setup
Shifters at the end of the aero-bar extensions
More aerodynamic bars tubing
Deeper section wheels
More padding in the nose of the saddle

Setting up your riding position

Based on the information above and with the help of a partner, video camera or mirror you should be able to do a pretty good job of setting up your riding position. If you want some more help then follow the steps below. It's easiest to approach your position set up in two phases:

The Foundation
The Fit Cycle

It is important to remember throughout this process that the bike should be adjusted to fit you rather than you adjusting to fit the bike. This means that if you already have a bike, the size of the frame is a potential issue in finding a suitable cycling position. Any changes to your riding position should ideally be made in small incremements allowing time for your body to adapt. If this is not possible you should increase the duration, frequency and intensity of your training in the new position slowly.

The Foundation

Like a well built house we need to consider the foundations first. There are 7 items worth looking at before we get into the main fit cycle:

Frame Sizing
Crank Length
Pedal, Cleat and Shoe Selection
Saddle Selection
Handlebar Width
Saddle Direction

Once these foundations are set there should be little need to make changes to them. If you already have your bike and pedal system there may be little you can do about items 1-5; however everyone should check points 6.

Frame Sizing

The correct frame size is one that will support your preferred cycling position. If your frame size is incorrect you will not be able to make appropriate adjustments to your saddle height, saddle position and handlebar position to create a safe, comfortable and efficient position. In an ideal world this means you would find the position you want to ride in first then find a frame that can be adjusted to support it. As this is not always possible, a number of calculations and rules of thumb have been suggested to find a suitable frame size:

Road Frame size is 0.65 x Inseam (cm)
Time trial frame size is 2cm smaller than your road frame size
Mountain Bike Frame size is 0.56 x inseam (cm)

Unfortunately there is no holy grail that works for every rider and type of bike. The situation is also confused by the way in which different bike manufactures measure their bike frames! The best option is to use the services of your local bike shop if you are looking to buy a new frame. See if they will let you ride it on a turbo. Otherwise try to find someone in the club who rides the same bike and see if you can have a quick go.

Crank Length

The length of the majority of commercially available cranks is usually between 165mm and 175mm. That's' a maximum difference of only 1cm from longest to shortest. There is little clear evidence to indicate the effect of crank length on performance for different riders and disciplines so most of it is down to personal preference.

The UCI recommends the following crank lengths as a starting point:

Inseam 74-77 cm - 170mm
Inseam 78-81 cm - 172.5mm
Inseam 82-85 cm - 175mm
Inseam 86-89 cm - 177.5mm
Inseam 90-93 cm - 180mm

As cycling disciplines have different demands they add the following guideance:

For Time Trial, Hill Climbing, MTB riders usually go 2.5 mm longer
For Criterium / Circuit Races riders usually go 2.5 mm shorter
For track events where speed is what matters (e.g. Sprint) riders often chose cranks as short as 165mm. This also allows more pedal clearance on bankings)

However, for time trial bikes my personal opinion is that you should ride the shortest possible cranks that don't impact on your ability to generate power. This is because a longer crank will cause a greater reduction in your hip angle at the top of the pedal stroke and this is often a limiting factor for people when riding in a time trial position. By using a shorter crank your foot will be lower opening your hip angle. I have an in-seam well in excess of 84cm and am currently riding 170mm cranks on my time trial bike which has resulted in efficiency (an increase in maintainable power production at the same heart rate).

Pedal, Cleat and Shoe Selection

There are a number of pedal and cleat options from companies like Shimano, Look and Speedplay. One thing to look at is the amount of adjustment that the pedal and cleat system offers:

Float
Cleat angle
Cleat mount position range
Pedal Spindle Length
Shoe canting
Shims to deal with leg length discrepancies

If I were to advise someone on which pedals to buy at the present time I would choose Speedplay as they have the widest range of adjustment.

Once this decision is made all you need to bear in mind is that if you change you pedal, cleat or shoe type this may effect your cycling position. This is due to the thickness of the pedal, cleat or shoe sole as well as the amount of adjustment they have so it's worth revisiting your bike setup if you change pedals, cleats or shoes.

Saddle Selection

Choose a saddle that you find comfortable and matches your anatomy. There are no hard and fast rule to follow as each person is different, trial and error is the only way forward. The main issue is to do with the width of your sit bones and whether the saddle supports them effectively. Women tend to have wider sit bones and therefore women's saddles tend to be wider, however due to great individual variation more experimentation may be necessary. The shape of the saddle may cause discomfort in sensitive areas therefore saddles with cut outs have been developed, but can potentially make the problem worse. The width of the tip may also cause chaffing on the inside of the thighs if you have a narrow pedalling stance. Once you find a saddle you like, look after it and stick with it.

A number of shops will offer a try before you buy service for saddles. They will have a range of demo saddles that you can loan for a limited period of time. Bontrager offer a sizing guide based on a simple test of sitting on a pad that measures the width of your sit bones. The result is then matched to a 'small', 'medium' or 'large' saddle.

Handlebar Width

The width of your handlebars should be relative to the width of your shoulders. For general road riding choose handlebars the same width as your shoulders. For off-road riding you may prefer handlebars slightly wider than your shoulders for more control. For time trial bikes experienced riders tend to choose narrow handlebars as they don't often intend to use them and are trying to reduce bike weight and improve aero-dynamics however you should be aware that this will make the bike hard to steer when using them and can be dangerous.

Saddle Direction

The tip of your saddle should point towards the centre of your stem, not off to one side. Surprisingly this is one of the most commonly observed bike setup issue so be sure to check before you complete the rest of this process.

The Fit Cycle

With the foundations set it's time to enter the fit cycle. We have called it a fit cycle as you may need to go through the steps more than once as changes in one area may affect previous adjustments in other areas. As you repeatedly move through the cycles the changes you make will get smaller until you are happy with the position you have.

Foot Position

You are looking to position the ball of your foot above the spindle of the pedal with the foot pointing forwards (parallel to the cranks). If you are using a clipless-pedal system you may need to adjust the position of the cleat on the bottom of your shoe to achieve this. If you are using flat pedals just move your foot until your find the right spot.

This should be thought of as a starting position for those with no know issues. Foot positioning can be the cause of a number of common cycling position issues. See the section on common bike fitting issues for more information and seek advice should issues occur.

Saddle Tilt

Ensure the saddle is level, not tilted up towards the sky or down towards the ground. This can be checked using a spirit level if required. Tilting the saddle a couple of degrees up or down to alleviate discomfort or facilitate a more aerodynamic position is acceptable but only as a last resort.

Saddle Height

For a road position you are looking to set an initial saddle height that results in 20-30 degrees of flexion at your knee joint when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Too low a saddle may result in pain at the front or side of the knee. Too high a saddle may result in pain at the back of the knee. There are a number of methods to achieve this:

Simply adjust your saddle height and use your judgement or a goniometer to judge the angle at your knee.
Wearing your cycling shoes, place your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Adjust your saddle height so that your heel just rest on the pedal and your leg is locked but your hips are still level. Try pedalling backwards with your feet in this position, there should be no rocking of the hips.
Use one of a number of popular formulas based on your inside leg measurement to set your starting saddle height; for example 1.06 to 1.12 x Inseam (cm)

The video below shows how you can use a goniometer to measure knee angle and how to measure your inseam :

For a time trial position you may experiment with knee bend as low as 10 degrees of flexion however this should be tested slowly over time as you become accustomed to riding until a preference is found.

Saddle Fore/Aft

For a road position, with the cranks of your bike horizontal and the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle, the front of your knee cap should be approximately above the front edge of the pedal spindle. A good way to test this is using a weight attached to a piece of string held against the front of your knee cap or using a spirit level. Slide the saddle forwards/backwards on the rails to achieve the desired position.

As a rule of thumb, for each degree increase in your seat tube angle the tip of your saddle will move forward by 1 cm. As time trial bikes can have seat tube angle as steep as 80 degrees this can move your knee significantly in front of the pedal spindle in the 3 o'clock position on for your time trial position. There is a British Triathlon rule that prevents the tip of the saddle being more than 5cm in front of the bottom bracket.

Handlebar Position

The position of your handlebars will effect the reach and drop of your bike. The diagram below demonstrates what we mean by reach and drop along with other key bike fit measurements:

For a road riding the position of your handlebars is dependant upon a number of factors including your flexibility and riding style. In general when on the tops or with your hands on the brake hoods of drop bars, you want your upper body at ~35-55 degrees to the horizontal and a 90 angle at the shoulder between your upper body and arm. Your arms should be bent 10-15 degrees at the elbow to help absorb shock. A good test is to sit on the saddle and allow your upper body to fall forward. As you put out your hands to break your fall the handlebars or brake hoods should be where you hands want to go to support you. Major adjustments to handlebar position are difficult to make so discuss with a mechanic or coach. Make sure your shoulders aren't shrugging (raised/high) when checking your handlebar position. They should be stable with your shoulder blades down. Often if you are too stretched you will compensate by shrugging your shoulders. This will eventually result in pain/discomfort.

Handlebar Rotation

For bikes with a flat style of bar there is little need to consider the rotation of the handlebars. For bike with drop handlebars, try setting them so that the tip points towards the middle of the seat stays. Combined with correct positioning of the brakes this should provide a safe and comfortable platform on the brake hoods to rest your hands.

Brake and Gear Position

Brakes and gears must be within easy reach at all times. In addition you should aim to keep your wrist aligned with your forearms arms to avoid unnecessary strain on your wrists. For bike with a flat style of bar set the brake levers downwards 30-45 degrees to follow the angle of your arm. For road riders try setting the tip of each brake lever in line with the flat end of the drop handlebars.

Weight Distribution

Bicycles are designed to handle best when 55-60% of the bicycle and rider weight is on the rear wheel and 40-45% is on the front wheel. When too much weight is forward bicycle control, handling and safety may be a problem, especially on descents. You may experience upper body aches and pains including hand numbness, tired arms and shoulders, neck, shoulder and upper back pain. When too much weight is back, bicycle control may be difficult in corners, front wheel slide-out can be a problem and front-end shimmy on descents is more common.

Weight distribution changes with terrain. You will often slide forward or back on your saddle to change weight distribution as you ride. On mountain bikes proper weight distribution is critical. You must be able to balance a forward distribution for uphill climbing traction and back distribution for descending.

Weight distribution results from almost all elements of bicycle fit, including pedal fore-aft, seat height, seat fore-aft, torso angle and reach. Most of these elements are adjusted to optimize position for other reasons - such as power production or overuse injury prevention. The key elements for adjusting weight distribution are saddle fore-aft position and the handlebar position (drop and reach).

If you want to check your weight distribution, weigh the combined weight of you and your bike then, with your bike setup on a turbo trainer, weigh the weight under the front wheel.

Recording Your Cycling Position

Once you've found a position you like you need to make a record of it. All it takes is for your saddle or bars to slip and without a record you will have to start the process again. This is likely to happen whenever you put your bike in a car or have to pack up your bike to take it on a plane. Usually for me this happens in the middle of a race!

To record your position it is best to use a control sheet. Below are Chris Boardman's control sheets for Road and Time Trial which he used to give to team mechanics to setup whichever bike he had to ride. These diagrams are taken from a British Cycling Coach Education article from their magazine 'Coaching Insight'. The article is on position setup and adaptation and is well worth a read. I've included a link to it below:

Coaching Insight: Positioning & Position Adaptation Technique

Below are the control sheets I use to record my road and time trial position. You don't need to complete every measurements. The information you NEED to record is the relationship between the points where you contact the bike. This will allow you to compare your position on any bike. The frame and other stuff are some other things you might like to make a note of for reference. Feel free to use these, or why not make up your own which include just the info you want to record:

Setting up a time trial position on a road bike

COMING SOON

Common Bike Fitting Issues

by Paul Savage (Athlete Matters)