Bike Maintenance
A good place to start with bike maintenance is to learn the names for the part of a bike (diagram courtesy of Steve Clayton)

Bike Safety Checks
Here are a few ideas from Steve regarding checks you can do before riding:
TYRES
- Inflation: Are both tyres pumped up? You should barely be able to squeeze the tyre's side walls in between your finger and thumb. If you can noticeably squeeze the side walls they are too soft
- Condition: The tyres should have no signs of excess wear and they should not be cracked or split
- Obstructions: Nothing should rub against the tyres when the wheels turn.
WHEELS
- Quick releases and wheel nuts: Quick-releases must be firmly closed and the lever not exposed. Are the wheel nuts tight? Wheels should be centralised in the fork and the frame.
- Bearings: Grasp each rim and rock it from side to side. Play at the rim must not exceed 3mm.
- Rims: Spin the wheels. The rims should not touch the brake blocks or the tyre touch the frame
- Defects: Check wheel rims for defects (dents etc.) that might cause the brakes to grab
- Spokes: Spokes should not be corroded or loose. Missing spokes need to be replaced
HANDLEBARS AND SADDLE
- Stem: Check the maximum extension height mark has not been exceeded (the mark should not be visible). Turn the bars gently side to side. The stem must stay aligned with front wheel fork.
- Saddle: Grasp each end of the saddle and try to rock it. It should not move, either up and down or side to side. The saddle should be level or point slightly downwards.
- Seat post: Check that the maximum height mark on the seat post has not been exceeded.
FRAME AND FORKS
- Headset: Apply the front brake and rock the front of the bike. There should be no more than a hint of rocking movement between the headset parts (i.e. between top of fork and bottom of frame, and top of frame and adjusting races). Lift the front end of the bike and turn the bars slowly. There should be no more than the merest hint of ‘notching'.
- Forks: There must be no signs of accident damage such as wrinkled paint near the top of the forks.
- Alignment of forks: The forks should follow the same line or appear to travel forwards of the head tube.
- Frame: Look for obvious defects including wrinkled paint around where the top tube and down tube meet the head tube.
CHAINSET
- Bottom bracket: Try to rock the cranks from side to side. Any play at the ends of the cranks should not exceed 4mm.
- Pedals: Check that the pedals are fastened tightly to the cranks and that there is no excessive wear or bearing play.
- Cranks and chainrings: The cranks should be tight on the bottom bracket axle. Chainrings should show no signs of damage.
BRAKES
- Levers and cables: Apply the brakes, pulling the levers back hard ten times making sure nothing ‘gives'. Cables must not be frayed.
- Adjustment: Brakes must make contact with the rim before the lever is pulled back more than one third of its travel.
- Reach: Can the rider reach and apply both brakes comfortably? Excessive effort should not be required.
- Attachment: The brake levers should be attached firmly to the handlebars. The brake units should be attached firmly to the frame or fork.
- Alignment: Apply the brakes firmly and rock the bike backwards and forwards. Ensure that the brake blocks will not touch the tyres or travel under the wheel rims.
- Wear: Check that the brake blocks are not excessively worn. The metal shoe must not touch the rim.
GEARS
- Adjustment: Go through the gears and ensure that the derailleur does not foul the wheel. While checking smooth changes and indexing.
CHAIN
- Position and alignment: Check the chain will not come off the front chain rings or come off and jam between the smallest/largest rear sprocket and the frame/wheel.
- Chain lubrication:The chain should be lightly lubricated. A very dry or rusty chain or one with stiff links is likely to result in poor shifting, snapping or it coming off.
MUDGUARDS AND RACKS
- Attachment: Check mudguard and rack stays are complete and attached firmly.
LIGHTS ATTACHMENT
- If attached cannot jump off or swing into a wheel. Pay particular attention to lights fitted to the front forks.
Changing an Inner Tube
Here's what my friend Eddie Allen from British Cycling has to say about changing an inner tube.
Related Documents
- A copy of these bike safety checks can be downloaded here: Steve Clayton's Bike Safety Checks
- You can download a checklist advised by British Cycling here: Bike Maintenance Checklist